Monday, July 13, 2009

Lake Titicaca y Isla del Sol






This past Friday afternoon we took a group trip to Lake Titicaca, which was unbelievable. In total, about 14 of us went, but we all went separately. Friday afternoon we took a 4 hour bus to Copacabana and stayed in a hostel there, and Saturday morning we took the 2 hour ferry ride to Isla del Sol to hike. Copa was really cool and really touristy. Lots of hippies and travelers. The hostel experience was interesting; 4 American dollars, but private bathrooms and fairly warm. To get to Copa, our bus literally drove right onto a big, wooden ferry, which is where the first picture is taken from- our little 'bus ride' via ferry across a huge lake. Isla del Sol is the island that the Incas believe was the origin of the Sun God. And if that's not true then something god-like was formed there because it is uncannily beautiful (see pictures). There are no motor vehicles or paved roads on the island; the hiking paths were very conserved and the whole rocky, hilly island is perfect as is. The main economy on the island is farming, with fishing and tourism to help out. We stayed at a beautiful hostel which was actually the same price as the one in Copa but ten times nicer (goes to show you have to shop around some!). When we got to Isla we had a 35 minute hike, vertically, up a mountain with all of our gear. Needless to say we were ready for lunch. So we had fresh trout with the view shown (above, again). It took an hour, but was so worth it, and besides, I think the cook literally went and caught 10 trout and cooked them right then, that's how good it was! Around 1 we started our hike. There are two trails, the Ridge Trail and the Coastal trail- you can guess what they were like based on their names. We took the Ridge Trail for 2 hours until we reached the Incan ruins and sacrificial Incan table, where we took a break to view the scenery and take a dip in the lake. The ruins were very well preserved, and VERY mazelike. They must have been so intelligent, because I got lost about 4 times in dead ends within the maze. When I finally made it down to the shore, I was convinced to dip into the sub-freezing water, probably resulting in the sore throat I have today. Fun Fact: we saw a cow skull in the water, very vivid, very shallow, as if it had just been there for like a week. How interesting; tried to take a picture but it didn't work out.
Around 5:30 we decided that we better find our way back to the other end of the island. So we took the coastal route back, with one major slight detour of our own. We had heard rumors that the coastal route took 3-4 hours, instead of 2, and we also knew that somehow we had to get back to the top where our hostel was. So we 'off-roaded' or more aptly 'off-trailed' for an hour from about 6-7 up the steepest climb I've probably ever done. I'm talking some of the most strenuous exercise I've ever had; straight vertical for an hour, at 12,500 feet with what felt like negative lung capacity. Anyways, we all made it and hiked the last hour on the Ridge Trail again (unfortunately it got very dark and very cold by the time we reached the top, but at least we cut off some time!) It was an experience to say the least, and I definitely wouldn't have done it any differently. So then we went to a pizza place and had the nice family cook us 'Gringos' 5 pizzas. It took an hour because the table was in their living room, they prepared the pizzas in their kitchen, and they cooked the pizzas in an oven in the drawers in the bedroom. I'm not kidding. Regardless, best pizza I've had in my life. I'm not sure if it's because I was famished or it really was that good.
Sunday was low key; slept in till 9, caught a private boat from the hostel back to Copa, and got to see the Sunday Market in Copa, which was very colorful and very fun! I took the early bus back, and got some much needed rest.
This week I'm at Servicios Adolescentes (a clinic for women 10-20 for information about contraceptives and pregnancy). Today we saw two girls, 17 and 19, both very pregnant. Any form of birth control is completely frowned upon here (they think it all is abortion). There are 2 vasectomies at each major hospital in the city each year (the term for this is machismo, if you were wondering). Women, if willing to use birth control methods, hide it from their husbands. Women must also ask their partners or husbands or 'common marriage partners' (which is when you are together for 2 years) if they are 'allowed' to get their tubes tied; hospitals also won't even consider a women for the operation unless the woman is over 30 and has 3 children. The term here is 'Satisfied parenthood'. How different. When we asked the Dra. what the deal was with this, she responded with 'Why would you get the operation sooner? What if your child dies? Your life would be ruined.' So here in Bolivia you get 4.8 average kids per family but a much lower life expectancy. It's just all part of their culture.
I only get three days at Servicios, because we have Thursday and Friday off this week. Thursday is the bicentenial celebration of the formation of La Paz (and mom, yes, the hospitals are CLOSED with the exception of the emergency room. How unbelievable.) So we're going to hang out in the city Thursday and head to the Salt Flats (Uyuni) on Thursday night for an overnight bus trip. So excited.

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